The Brooklyn Fi Guide to Japan
By: AJ Ayers, CFP®
Japan is in BKFi’s DNA quite literally. Once upon a time, Shane and I met on a podcast to discuss freelance taxes and discovered we both had a love for all things Japanese (me mostly food and literature, Shane mostly anime and literature). Shane was planning a trip later that fall, and I had been a few times, so I suggested we meet up to share travel tips and maybe chat more about taxes. Even though I had my Lonely Planet guide in tow, it sat there on the bench of that bar in Greenpoint unread because we ended up talking for more than two hours about everything wrong with financial services and how we were going to change it.
Anyways, that was the night Brooklyn Fi was born. But Shane eventually made it to Japan, and I returned shortly after. It’s a special place and has a very special place in our firm’s history. With so many of our clients scratching the travel itch after a long pandemic, I’ve found myself dashing off lists of hotel recommendations and can’t-miss restaurants. I thought I’d take a break from my RSU tax advice posts and just share my Japan favorites. I spent about 65,788 hours planning my fifth trip to the Empire of the Sun so hopefully, this guide is helpful to you :)
I don’t claim to be all-knowing and there are certainly better guidebooks out there written by people who actually know what they are talking about. None of these places are hidden gems I have stumbled upon; they were all found through recommendations and other people’s very good lists. But if you like great hotels, great food, music, and walking…I think you’ll enjoy my picks.
My first trip to Japan was in October 2011. I worked as an editorial assistant at an academic publisher and had very little free cash flow. I had saved diligently and after the plane ticket, my budget was $2,000 for a ten-day trip. I went by myself, and if you recall, in August 2011 Japan suffered one of the worst nuclear disasters in history when the Fukushima reactor melted down. The country was in a weird place, but for a white girl traveling alone, it was sobering. There was devastating destruction from the tsunami and contamination from the Fukushima reactor spill. I did not encounter many tourists on that trip and most of the Japanese people I encountered on that trip were gracious and happy to see me. It was isolating, especially outside the larger cities where English is rarely spoken. I don’t speak Japanese and was certainly intimidated by certain restaurants without English menus. I wish I had been a bit more bold on that first trip.
On another trip, I traveled with a friend’s band to some of the smaller cities and stayed mostly in AirBnbs which could sleep eight people.
Japan is perfect for solo travelers. Just read Patti Smith’s M Train, and you’ll see what I mean.
My last trip to Japan before the pandemic was my honeymoon with a very different budget. So in this guide, you’ll find a nice mix of “High” and “Low.” Highs are bougie experiences that are pricey, and lows are generally less expensive.
I’ve been five times over 13 years and have still barely scratched the surface. There’s just so much to see and do.
I don’t know if he actually said this but I’ve seen this quote attributed to Anthony Bourdain and I love it.
"Eat at a local restaurant tonight. Get the cream sauce. Have a cold pint at 4 o’clock in a mostly empty bar. Go somewhere you’ve never been. Listen to someone you think may have nothing in common with you. Order the steak rare. Eat an oyster. Have a Negroni. Have two. Be open to a world where you may not understand or agree with the person next to you, but have a drink with them anyways. Eat slowly. Tip your server. Check in on your friends. Check in on yourself. Enjoy the ride."
Even the budget hotels in Japan will often provide beautiful pajamas.
How to Narrow it Down
Travel research can be overwhelming. Japan is not necessarily a large country but there is so much to see.
In my opinion, the best time to go is October. Fall in Japan with all the orange and red maple trees is breathtaking. I’ve also been in August (nice but HOT), December (beautiful and festive, but cold), and April (my second favorite time to visit). Skip Cherry Blossom season, it’s way too crowded and expensive everywhere.
If it’s your first time, keep it simple and stick to a few cities. These are some sample itineraries based on a few of my trips. TRUST me there is plenty to see.
First Timer, Japan Highlights in 10 Days
There’s so much to do in this country and so much to see. You could easily spend ten days in Tokyo and not see the half of it. Tokyo is amazing but it is overwhelming. This perfect little trip gets the wonders of Tokyo, a bit of Japanese hospitality in the mountains of Hakone, and a visit to my favorite city in the world: Kyoto. You could totally squeeze in Nara or Osaka for a day or night from Kyoto if you really want to.
Day 1 - Arrive Tokyo, and recover from Jetlag
Day 2 - Tokyo
Day 3 - Tokyo
Day 4 - Tokyo - Depart for Hakone evening
Day 5 - Hakone
Day 6 - Take train from Hakone to Kyoto
Day 7 - Kyoto
Day 8 - Kyoto
Day 9 - Kyoto
Day 10 - Fly home (you can either take the bullet train back to Tokyo or just take a domestic flight from Kyoto to Tokyo to catch your international flight)
If you have more time: Japan in 12 Days
Here’s a wild ITIN from my most recent April, 2023 trip. The one below is a little more sane.
Day 1 - Arrive Tokyo, and recover from Jetlag
Day 2 - Tokyo
Day 3 - Tokyo
Day 4 - Tokyo - Depart for Kyoto evening + stay in Ryokan
Day 5 - Kyoto
Day 6 - Kyoto
Day 7 - Kyoto - Ghibli Theme Park
Day 8 - Depart for Naoshima
Day 9 - Naoshima
Day 10 - Train to Osaka
Day 11 - Osaka
Day 12 - Osaka + Fly home (you can either take the bullet train back to Tokyo or just take a domestic flight from Osaka to Tokyo to catch your international flight)
I HIGHLY recommend you spend at least one night in a traditional Japanese bed and breakfast, a Ryokan. This is where you’ll be issued fancy pajamas, a robe and slippers and likely will take lots of hot spring baths and enjoy the serene architecture and zen gardens. Insane 7-10 course meals are usually served either in your room or in a private dining room (you wear your pajamas to dinner). Don’t plan on leaving the property. Grab a Murakami book and enjoy the serenity. There are amazing Ryokans in Hakone, easily accessible from Tokyo. There are even better ones in the hills of Kyoto. But the real mega amazing ones are further afield (check out Zaborin below).
Before You Go
As a foreigner trying to book things in Japan, you may be frustrated with outdated forms and reservation applications. Have patience! Use Google Translate. Many of the best hotels and Ryokans outside the bigger cities are not on any foreign booking sites like Hotels.com.
Get a pocket wifi - $5-$10 a day, no brainer. Pick it up and return it at the airport
If it’s a national holiday, book your train tickets ahead of time (I almost ruined our honeymoon LOL)
Shinkansen tickets: there’s this ONE website for foreigners to book ahead of time. It looks scammy, but it’s legit: https://smart-ex.jp/en/lp/app/
Jetlag is a bitch, stay in a nice comfortable hotel your first night and plan to sleep a lot. You’ll likely land in Tokyo, so staying near the fish market can be fun when you wake up at 4am.
Book ahead of time: all the Ghibli stuff will sell out. Book museum and theme park tickets ahead of time. Also the Imperial Palace and other popular sacred sites will require advanced tickets. The Ghibli museum is near Tokyo and the theme park is near Kyoto.
If the journey looks too far/hard by train between destinations, just spring for a private car arranged by your hotel. It can be pricey ($100-$500) but totally worth it. For example: on Hokkaido, I needed to get from the east to west side of the island - by train it was 6 hours with three transfers. My hotel arranged for a private driver to take me for $200 - worth every penny for the 90 minute trip.
Yes, Japan is expensive, but you can also have an amazing trip on a budget. There are plenty of lovely hotels to stay in for less than $250 a night. If your budget is larger, you will not find better luxury hotels in the world. I’ve listed a few of my favorites.
Good website for Ryokan booking: https://www.japaneseguesthouses.com
Before you go: read a few Murakami novels (I like Kafka on the Shore) and Patti Smith’s M Train. Watch Lost in Translation and listen to Ryuichi Sakamoto.
I got to fly on the Pikachu jet!
Beyond Tokyo and Kyoto
This is a mishmash of places I’ve been that I truly loved and can be tacked on to most itineraries.
Osaka
Honestly, I just ate and drank my way through Osaka. Go if you have time. I don’t have a ton to add to what you can easily find online. Trust the guidebooks - drink beer and wander the city.
We stayed here, which was lovely and not terribly expensive. It actually had one of the most incredible hot springs on the roof (have you noticed I like hot springs)
Shimanami Kaido
Closest major city: Hiroshima
Time needed: you could do it in 1 day without staying over if timed right.
If you like to bike or even like to Peloton, this is a must-do. It’s a series of six-ish suspension bridges across a few islands in the Seto Sea.
Hiroshima
The ghosts of the atomic bomb are everywhere and you can still see one bombed-out building. Hiroshima is generally a very hip and chill city, but it’s absolutely worth a visit to the memorial and museum if you’re a history freak like me.
Koyasan
If you truly need a break from the hustle of the big city, head to Mount Koya or Koyasan. It’s a Zen retreat town with lots of temples and hikes. Absolutely stunning and weird. Great for a solo traveler. I stayed at one of the temples.
Naoshima Island
Naoshima had always been on my bucket list and my husband and I finally made it in April, 2023. It was well worth the wait. I’m never one to pass up a fabulous hotel so we actually spent one night in each of the island’s top tier hotels.
Book your museum tickets in ADVANCE! We almost got turned away but our hotel came through at the last minute. You can walk the island or take some of the public buses if you plan correctly.
Stay right on the beach by the Kusama pumpkin at Benesse House. Loved the ‘90s decor. Food was pretty mid. You need to book these hotels FAR in advance.
Ryokan Roka is a newer hotel on the island. I love the private hot springs in the room. It’s in a beautiful area to explore.
People lining up to take photos of Kusama’s pumpkin on Naoshima.
Hokkaido
The northernmost island of Japan is referred to as “wild” in many of the guidebooks. I’m not a skier, but I’m told it has some of the best snow on earth. I went for the snow crabs instead. The seafood in Hokkaido is truly INSANE. I ate bowls of the freshest sea urchin and crab and never spent more than $40 USD on breakfast or lunch. Many people spend time in the northeast of the island for the parks and skiing. I was mostly on the Western/South side.
So much Uni for like $25 bucks.
Sapporo
You’ll probably end up in Sapporo at the start or end of your Hokkaido stay. There are tons of domestic flights from Sapporo to Tokyo, Kyoto and elsewhere every day. I started my most recent two-week trip in Sapporo and stayed at a lovely little Onsen hotel across from the Botanical Garden. Again, I highly recommend staying in one of your nicest hotels when you land (preferably one with an outdoor soaking tub) because you will feel crazy from Jetlag. Go to the fish markets in Sapporo. If you need a starting point, check out Kitano Gourmet, it’s foreign-friendly but still very good. There’s a great little natural wine bar called Bird Watching that I loved. Take a 20 minute bus ride to Moerenuma Park for some outdoor sculpture. You’ve probably heard of Noguchi’s coffee table, here is an entire park of his genius.
Zaborin
Zaborin has been haunting me for years and I finally make the trek out there. It's a luxury Ryokan on the western side of Hokkaido. If you like hot springs and luxury, this is the place for you. Nearby Mount Yotei is (IMHO) even more breathtaking than Mount Fuji.
Noboribetsu Onsen and Hell Valley
It’s a bit Mordor-like with sulfur vents and demon culture. Noboribetsu Onsen was such a cool little weird town. Walking through “Hell Valley” with its terrifying landscape and turquoise mineral pools was a highlight.
Mount Fuji
It’s iconic. Go if you can. Stay in the “glamping” themed hotel run by the Hoshinoya people who really know what they are doing.
Iya Onsen
It’s not easy to get to, but it’s well worth it. The Iya valley is breathtaking anytime of the year and this little hotel has a cable car that takes you down to a private Onsen in the river that flows through the gorge. It’s quite isolated so I recommend bringing a car or hiring a driver to take you to some hikes.
The Iya Valley
Matsuyama
If Spirited Away was as important to your adolescence as it was to mine, do not sleep on Matsuyama, and more specifically, Dogo Onsen. This is the centuries old bathhouse that supposedly Miyazaki based spirited away on. It’s a cute little city with plenty to see. Not many foreign tourists get here but I absolutely LOVED Matsuyama. There’s an amazing castle you can hike up to - if you like history, it’s a must.
Tokyo
Hotels in Tokyo: K5 for that Japanese hipster luxury or Hoshinoya for traditional excellence (with a hot spring on the roof - two stories of sheet metal with a window to the sky). You really can’t go wrong in Tokyo.
Stuff to do
Kitchen Street is really fun for housewares and souvenir dishes. In my former life I was a food and travel writer and wrote about it here.
Cafe Lion is a must. Sit and listen to classical music on the most insane speakers and sip bad coffee while watching the regulars. Just go, trust me.
If you’re sick of Japanese food, check out Locale, a tiny and wonderful restaurant serving some of the best eggs I’ve had in my life.
Kyoto
I can’t explain why I love Kyoto so much. Maybe because I grew up in a hilly part of Los Angeles and the tree-lined pathways remind me of my childhood? Anyways, it’s a beautiful city that’s sexy and complex. It’s a mixture of old versus new. Kyoto is a much more conservative and traditional city than, say, Tokyo, but it also has a seedy underbelly glimpsed in the tiny alleyways near the river. Go to the Golden Pavillion and a few of the temples, but don’t overdo it.
Two hotels I love are Genji Kyoto and Shiki Juraku.
There’s also a brand new Ace Hotel. I haven’t stayed there yet but the building and restaurant are 10/10. An excellent low-cost option for those on a budget is Piece Hotel.
Rent a bike and explore the city. Don’t miss the bamboo groves of Arashiyama.
Random: Do not sleep on this Kyoto-based cosmetic brand Yojia. Go to their flagship store on the Philosopher's Path and have a cute green tea shaved ice in the beautiful garden. And if you end up finding my guide helpful, please, for the love of god, please bring me back my favorite conditioner from Yojia (I’m out!). Also, great shopping: Ichizawa Shinzaburo Hanpu sailing cloth bags.
Yojiya cafe in Kyoto.
Make sure you wander around all the little alleyways and if you don’t find them in Tokyo, check out a listening bar. Beatlemomo is a good one.
Eating in Kyoto often requires reservations ahead of time. DEFINITELY eat in one of the traditional Kaiseki places on the river, I can’t remember which one I liked so just ask your hotel or Eater. There are two spots that are not Japanese that I love. Shokudo Ruins is a french wine bar with amazing French food. It’s very low key, but you will definitely need a reservation, ask your hotel to make it for you. Also, Ki is a weird little Lebanese breakfast and lunch spot. Wait two hours for Udon so good you’ll swear it’s worth it. Nishiki Market is worth a wander.
That’s all for now - this should get you started.